Cat. #		Description	                                     Size
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Deflected Warp Group - Includes Leno and Other Techniques

HH-DW 1  Scarf, pale lime & avocado green wool warp, yellow           6" X 70"
         cotton weft, deflected warp weave in the warp stripes

HH-DW 2  Scarf, woven by Hilary Chetwynd; fine dark blue cotton      11.5" X 50"
         warps with fine supplementary space dyed turquoise 
         through dark blue warps.  Doup leno weave, supplementary
         warps only are deflected.  

HH-DW 3  Sample, from Hilary Chetwynd. Fine green silk warp,         12" X 10" 
         fine teal silk weft; leno structure, oval patterns;
         Mounted in cardboard strip with Chetwynd I.D.
        
HH-DW 4  Sample, from Hilary Chetwynd. Fine light blue and brown      7" X 10"
         warps in warp faced stripes; fine pale ecru weft; leno
         pattern weave;  Mounted in cardboard strip

HH-DW 5  Sample, linen(?) white warp, bands of white and brown        7" X 13"
         weft; alternating float weave; sewing machine stitched      
         so that 6 samples could be cut from it; one is cut out.

HH-DW 6  Sample, brown, gold, cream synthetic warps, synthetic        5" X 2.5"
         gold wefts; section (1) is a twill derivative with gold 
         3-span wefts; section (2) is an alternating float weave.

HH-DW 7  Sample, beige linen, leno. Woven by Fritzi (friend of        4.5" X 6"
         Anne's).

HH-DW 8  Sample, white linen, deflected supplementary warps,          6.5" X 5"
         no selvages (possibly also woven by Fritzi).
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Compound Weaves

HH-CW 1  Swatch, red, black & grey wool, supplementary weft           4.5" X 5"
         pattern areas on striped warp face ground; handwritten
         label "Formosa, Tarjal [?] Tribe"

HH-CW 2  Sample, gold and green synthetics, supplementary wefts of   12.5" X 25"
         jute on a plain weave, warp faced ground, similar pattern
         to HH-CW 1

HH-CW 3  Sample, same as HH-CW 2, but jute and linen warps,          13" X 29"
         synthetic fine weft, sisal and multiple stranded linen, 
         supplementary wefts. Exactly same as HH-CW2, slightly 
         different yarns and colors.

HH-CW 4  Sample, shades of cream, synthetic yarns and vegetal         6.5" X 8"
         fibers, rayon supplementary weft floats on tabby ground

HH-CW 5  Sample, purple cotton 2-ply warp, yellow vegetal weft,       4.5" X 25"
         single and 2-ply; studies of compound weaves. End sample
         is weave of HH-CW 9.

HH-CW 6  Hanging, rust linen warp, gold synthetic weft, pattern of   20" X 24"
         wide parallel diagonal lines reversed in middle, top and
         bottom  borders, 1.75" and 1.5". Double-faced twill;
         face of fabric 5/1 twill, back side is 2/1 twill.

HH-CW 7  Tube, thin rust singles linen warp, thick rust linen and
         black 3ply wefts; same weave as HH-CW 6, warp selvages 
         sewn together to create tube. Appears to be woven on same        
         warp as HH-CW 6.

HH-CW 8  Upholstery sample, alternating beige and green synthetic     8" X 4"
         warps, gold synthetic warps, gold synthetic weft; tabby
         ground weave with 3-span weft floats in alternating 
         alignment on face in same color.

HH-CW 9  Upholstery sample, alternating beige with green and          9" X 17"
         brown synthetic warps; brown warp paired with thin red 
         linen singles; thick red singles linen weft; same weave
         as HH-CW 8.

HH-CW 10 Upholstery sample, alternating 2-ply jute and thin yellow    8" X 13"
         synthetic warps; green and gold synthetic wefts. Three
         studies: (1) green weft, 2/1 twill; (2) two wefts, green 
         on face, gold on back, alternating 3-span wefts, no tabby;
         (3) gold on face, green on back, beaten lighter so that 
         warps show, appears to be 50/50 fabric.

HH-CW 11 Sample, black, natural and bleached jute, loose 3-ply       10" X 7"
         warp; 3 ply natural weft; 2/2 twill center section,
         tabby edges 1/5" wide each; weft floats across the back
         of tabby areas-spiraling weft?

HH-CW 12 Sample, red thick and thin singles linen warp and weft;      7.5" X 12"
         one section weft is thin only; integrated plain weave.

HH-CW 13 Sample, natural jute and yellow 3-ply synthetic warps       18" X 18"
         alternately threaded; single ply shiny synthetic lime
         and yellow wefts alternately in tabby; Supplementary 3/1
         weft floats offset diagonally of thick single ply vegetal
         fiber. One end, warps are finished as a rug warp would
         be for a few inches.

HH-CW 14 Upholstery fabric, gold, green, beige, rust warp gold       25" X 44"
         weft, all synthetic; both warp ends cut, one weft edge
         cut;  integrated weave

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Interesting Weaves -- The cataloger found something of interest in each of these
otherwise unrelated pieces.

HH-IW-1  Piece of cut fabric, both warp and weft: alternating        16" X 31"
         pale blue rayon ribbon and two fine 2-ply slub 
         rayon threads

HH-IW-2  Sample, warp: fine, stiff, cream synthetic; weft 2-ply       8.5" X 16"
         and unspun rayon(?), fine flat metallic thread in first,
         unspun rayon and metallic tape in upper in tabbey;
         3/2 Weft half.

HH-IW-3  Fabric scrap, handspun brown wool warp, brown and white      7" X 15"
         handspun wefts, some of the white wefts float over
         two, under two, in pattern sequences with tabby. 

HH-IW-4  Upholstery fabric triangular cut swatch, double weave,      10" X 11"
         checker-board type pattern, warps: fine 2-ply cotton 
         in rust and bronze green; wefts: thicker 2-ply white
         cotton and fine 2-ply lime cotton (same type as warp).
         

HH-IW-5A Color and Weave sample, warp and weft are bleached white     7.25" X 6"
         and natural grey linens, very slubby

      5B Color and Weave sample, same warps and wefts as 5A           7.25" X 7"
         adding copper metalic threads in both.

HH-IW-6  Textured yarns sample with areas of weft loops,              6.5" X 7.5"
         linen warps: fine grey 2-ply, 2-ply medium weight yellow, 
         single-ply thicker yellow green and moss green; linen
         weft: fine natural grey 2-ply linen, over-twisted (same
         as that of the warp). Pattern is vertical rows of loops.

HH-IW-7  Textured yarns sample with areas of weft loops.              6.5" X 9"
         Same warps and wefts as IW-6. Pattern is blocks of
         loops.

HH-IW-8  Textured yarns sample with areas of weft loops.              6.5" X 10.5"
         Same warps and wefts as IW-6. Pattern is horizontal
         blocks of loops.

HH-IW-9  Plain and Basket weaves sample, singles rust linen warp     17" X 16.5"
         in 2 sizes, thin in plain weave area, thick in basket 
         weave area; weft is two types: natural linen same size
         as thin rust linen warp for about 3 inches; then
         a plied cream colored linen, slightly finer for 
         remaining 13 + inches.


HH-IW-10 Upholstery fabric, rust vegetal warp; gold synthetic        24" X 28"
         weft; pattern of basically tabby, with wefts doubled
         seemingly randomly, at the beginning of vertical
         columns of weft floats over 3 warps.

HH-IW-11 Theo Moorman technique sample, ground weave: plied          12" X 13"
         white cotton and finer brown linen warps, very fine
         natural grey linen singles wefts; pattern weft: 
         thicker singles linen in cream, moss green and brown.

HH-IW-12 Theo Moorman technique sample, same warp for ground         12" X 12" 
         weave as IW-11; pattern weft: thicker singles linen 
         in yellow and  moss green.

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Plain Weave and More -- Experiments mostly in plain weave, with color and weave,
thick and thin yarns, and more.

HH-PW-1  Sample, browns & grey, mixed warps: metallic, chenille,      7" X 18"
         synthetic; various wefts, including raffia and leather.

HH-PW-2  Sample for upholstery fabric, several colors of Multiple     9" X 34"
         Fabric rug yarn, warp face twill.

HH-PW-3  Samples, alternating natural single ply jute and thin        7" X 24"
         yellow 2-plied synthetic or silk warp; various sequences
         of the thick jute and thin yellow synthetic plus thicker
         dark green, dark brown or gold synthetic wefts.  Half of
         two vertical sections of the same, wider sampler.

HH-PW-4  Other half of HH-PW-3                                        7" X 24"

HH-PW-5  Sample, thin yellow linen warp, thin slub natural linen
         weft in tabby areas, thick sisal supplementary weft in
         alternating 3-span floats.

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Twill Weaves - in traditional and non-traditional fibers, including some color
experiments.

HH-TW-1  Twill sample, black warp and white weft, cotton 2/2 diamond  5" X 29"
         twill, reversals staggered, possibly woven for Emery, p.98. 











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Bibliography:

Irene Emery, The Primary Structures of Fabrics, 2nd edition (Watson-Guptill
   Publications, New York, reprinted 1995)

Hella Skowronski and Sylvia Tacker, Doup Leno, Shuttle Craft Guild
  Monograph Thirty-Two, 1980.