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This section of the collection includes two groups of ``Collapse'' textiles: seven pieces by Mary Frame, woven in the 1980's, and some of the experiments from Anne's replication of the ``Peruvian ace bandage'' found at the De Young Museum some time in the 1960's. This replication influenced many weavers to play with the idea of collapse over the years. One of the first artists to become intrigued was Lillian Elliott, who played with this process during the 70's and 80's. She and her students would sometimes in the process of critiquing their weavings decide they needed more interest, take the chance of putting them in hot water or the dryer, and transform the cloth into something that would come alive. Any discrepancies in twist or fiber would cause puckering or shrinking of some areas, even if the sett were close. At one point Lillian oversaw a large project of overspinning various types of yarns, involving students to take data on degree of spin, direction, role as warp or weft, etc., to record what happens in the cloth. A summary of Lillian's playing with collapse over the years is given in her article in In Celebration of the Curious Mind, ``In Search of Collapse'', p. 103. Spinners particularly became interested in this quality achieved with overspinning. Articles began to appear in the weaving and spinning magazines. Mary Frame became intrigued and began her own experiments in the 1980's, producing beautiful shawls, shirts and jackets, and included knitting as well as weaving with overspun yarn. Mary made a major contribution to the subject in her articles in Spinoff during 1986-87. The pieces included in this group which were woven by Mary were gifts to Anne, and she has generously permitted them to remain in the collection. We think Anne was particularly tickled by the activity cultivated by her discovery. None of Anne's completed pieces are in the collection, but we have slides of her beautiful large shawl showing hen tracks, and the fabulous eight harness natural black and white waffle weave blanket. Please visit the Peruvian section of this collection to see more ``collapsed'' pieces: a supplementary warp and weft collapsed piece that Anne wove (pictured in Tidball's monograph on Peruvian cloth) and some gauze samples and pieces. These pieces are included in two study boxes which may be ordered for a temporary loan.

A shawl woven by Mary Frame in collapse technique Two Ace Bandage samples, Merino, Left washed, Right unwashed "Hen tracks" detail from shawl