Anne Blinks Textile Study Collection

Flat Braids

Catalog for Flat Braids

Bibliography for Flat Braids

We have two types of Flat Braiding in the Collection. The simpler technique is oblique interlacing in a balanced plain weave and is found in Native American cultures as well as Scandinavian. [It must occur in most world cultures.] Anne made several garters in this technique and often wore them to hold up knee high stockings. Anne's version is very likely something she learned from the Scandinavians. She did learn to weave in Stockholm, Sweden and later became good friends with the Swedish weaver, Valborg Gravander, who lived in the San Francisco Bay area. They used to attend faires together, ``Mama" Gravander in Swedish costume, Anne carding wool, Mama spinning and weaving. Did Anne wear the garters to the faires?

The more complicated technique in the Collection is technically a warp-faced oblique interlacing, with concealed and linked elements--better known as ceinture fléchée or Assomption sash. There are two started samples, still on small sticks, probably from a workshop. The jewel of this group of textiles is a very beautiful, fully woven sash, in rather thick Swedish rya yarn. The elements are larger than used by the Native Americans, but the worsted Swedish yarn works very well in the lightning pattern. Anne knowingly or not wedded the two cultures together in this beautiful sash.

All of these pieces are included in a study box which may be ordered by handweaving guilds or individual weavers for a temporary loan.

Anne's Assomption Sash

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Bibliography for Flat Braids

Catalog of Flat Braids Group

  Cat #         Description                             Size

Oblique Interlacing - Balanced Plain Weave, commonly found in Native North
   American and Scandinavian cultures

  1-1a     2 narrow wool sashes, blue/white      1-1/8" x 36-3/4"
     b                                             1-1/8" x 37-1/2"
            [These sashes were sometimes worn by Anne as garters for 
             knee-high socks]
  1-2      wool sash, black/blue/red/white       2" x 38"

  1-3      wool sash, red/yellow                 2" x 33"

  1-4      wool sash, yellow/green/brow          1.5" x 42"


Oblique Interlacing - Warp Faced Weave with Concealed and Linked Elements, 
  Often called Arrow Sash, Ceinture Flechee or Assomption Sash; found 
  historically in Plains, Great Lakes and French Canadian Indian cultures.                     
  2-1      2 wool samples, arrow sash
              a=green/red/blue                   4.5" x 3"
              b=blue/red                         2.5" x 2"
              [partially woven, still on sticks, probably from a workshop]

  2-2      arrow sash
              coral/grey/white Swedish rya wool  6" x 62"            
              [displayed in the Blinks/Thimann Exhibit, 1982]   


Ply-split Braiding - a technique involving two sets of elements that move
  diagonally, and at their intersection one splits the ply of the other and
  passes through it. It is found in northwest India, used for camel girths
  and bags.

  3-1      wool sample, black & white,           4.5" x 117" (3" woven)
              3-ply Z/S/Z

Diagonally twined braid, in the camel girth patterns.  Perhaps Anne was
  testing the difference between twining and ply-split braiding, which
  look very similar

  3-2      wool sample, black & magenta          4" x 36" (24" woven)
              3 ply S/Z worsted




Bibliography for Flat Braids Group

Robert J. Austin, A Manual of Fingerweaving (Crazy Crow Trading Post, 
  P.O. Box 847, Pottsboro, TX 75076-0847, 2000).

Dorothy K. Burnham, The Comfortable Arts, Traditional Spinning and Weaving
  in Canada (National Museums of Canada, Ottawa, 1981), pp. 36-51.

Jesse Clemans, "The Sash of the Voyageur", Piecework 4:3, May-June 1996,
  pp. 54-60.

Peter Collingwood, "Ply-Split Braiding I", Weaver's 29:47-51; "Ply-Split 
   Braiding II: Two-Layered Oblique Interlacing", Weaver's 32: 46-49; 
   "Single Course Oblique Twining", Weaver's Winter 1998.

Peter Collingwood, The Technique of Ply-Split Braiding (Bellew, 1998). 

Virginia I. Harvey, Split-Ply Twining, Threads in Action Monograph I
  (HTH Publishers, Santa Ana, CA, 1976).

Betsy D. Quick & Judith A. Stein, Ply-split Camel Girths of West India,
  Pamphlet Series Vol. 1, Number 7, Museum of Cultural History, 
  University of California, Los Angeles, 1982.

Noemi Speiser, The Manual of Braiding, 3rd Edition, Basel, 1983 (self 
  published),  pp. 42-44.  Ordering address:  Noemi Speiser,
  Ziefener-strasse 25, CH-4424 Arboldwil, Switzerland.
Alta Turner, Finger Weaving: Indian Braiding (Little Craft Books Series
  of Sterling Publishing Co., Inc., New York, 1973).
Adrienne Whitelaw, "Assomption Sash, a Long Tradition in French Canada",
  Handweaver & Craftsman 21:3, Summer 1970, pp. 12-14, 36.  


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