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The more complicated technique in the Collection is technically a warp-faced oblique interlacing, with concealed and linked elements--better known as ceinture fléchée or Assomption sash. There are two started samples, still on small sticks, probably from a workshop. The jewel of this group of textiles is a very beautiful, fully woven sash, in rather thick Swedish rya yarn. The elements are larger than used by the Native Americans, but the worsted Swedish yarn works very well in the lightning pattern. Anne knowingly or not wedded the two cultures together in this beautiful sash. All of these pieces are included in a study box which may be ordered by handweaving guilds or individual weavers for a temporary loan. | ![]()
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Cat # Description Size
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Oblique Interlacing - Balanced Plain Weave, commonly found in Native North
American and Scandinavian cultures
1-1a 2 narrow wool sashes, blue/white 1-1/8" x 36-3/4"
b 1-1/8" x 37-1/2"
[These sashes were sometimes worn by Anne as garters for
knee-high socks]
1-2 wool sash, black/blue/red/white 2" x 38"
1-3 wool sash, red/yellow 2" x 33"
1-4 wool sash, yellow/green/brow 1.5" x 42"
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Oblique Interlacing - Warp Faced Weave with Concealed and Linked Elements,
Often called Arrow Sash, Ceinture Flechee or Assomption Sash; found
historically in Plains, Great Lakes and French Canadian Indian cultures.
2-1 2 wool samples, arrow sash
a=green/red/blue 4.5" x 3"
b=blue/red 2.5" x 2"
[partially woven, still on sticks, probably from a workshop]
2-2 arrow sash
coral/grey/white Swedish rya wool 6" x 62"
[displayed in the Blinks/Thimann Exhibit, 1982]
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Ply-split Braiding - a technique involving two sets of elements that move
diagonally, and at their intersection one splits the ply of the other and
passes through it. It is found in northwest India, used for camel girths
and bags.
3-1 wool sample, black & white, 4.5" x 117" (3" woven)
3-ply Z/S/Z
Diagonally twined braid, in the camel girth patterns. Perhaps Anne was
testing the difference between twining and ply-split braiding, which
look very similar
3-2 wool sample, black & magenta 4" x 36" (24" woven)
3 ply S/Z worsted
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Robert J. Austin, A Manual of Fingerweaving (Crazy Crow Trading Post,
P.O. Box 847, Pottsboro, TX 75076-0847, 2000). www.crazycrow.com.
Dorothy K. Burnham, The Comfortable Arts, Traditional Spinning and Weaving
in Canada (National Museums of Canada, Ottawa, 1981), pp. 36-51.
Jesse Clemans, "The Sash of the Voyageur", Piecework 4:3, May-June 1996,
pp. 54-60.
Peter Collingwood, "Ply-Split Braiding I", Weaver's 29:47-51; "Ply-Split
Braiding II: Two-Layered Oblique Interlacing", Weaver's 32: 46-49;
"Single Course Oblique Twining", Weaver's Winter 1998.
Peter Collingwood, The Technique of Ply-Split Braiding (Bellew, 1998).
Virginia I. Harvey, Split-Ply Twining, Threads in Action Monograph I
(HTH Publishers, Santa Ana, CA, 1976).
Betsy D. Quick & Judith A. Stein, Ply-split Camel Girths of West India,
Pamphlet Series Vol. 1, Number 7, Museum of Cultural History,
University of California, Los Angeles, 1982.
Noemi Speiser, The Manual of Braiding, 3rd Edition, Basel, 1983 (self
published), pp. 42-44. Ordering address: Noemi Speiser,
Ziefener-strasse 25, CH-4424 Arboldwil, Switzerland.
Alta Turner, Finger Weaving: Indian Braiding (Little Craft Books Series
of Sterling Publishing Co., Inc., New York, 1973).
Adrienne Whitelaw, "Assomption Sash, a Long Tradition in French Canada",
Handweaver & Craftsman 21:3, Summer 1970, pp. 12-14, 36.
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